Ultimate First-Time RV Guide: Everything You Need to Know and Troubleshooting
- Asher Cousins
- Feb 5
- 16 min read
So you are looking into renting an RV. Now comes the part that makes first-timers nervous: What do I actually need to know before I pick it up?
The first part of this guide is designed to educate you on all RV systems as quick as possible before you pick up your RV. The second part is a comprehensive troubleshooting list that will help you solve 99% of problems you may experience while using your RV. Normally guides like this cost money but I have made it free for the benefit of my renters and any who are interested in a crash course on RVs.
What to Expect on Your First RV Trip
An RV is basically three things combined:
A vehicle (driving, parking, turning)
A small cabin (power, water, heating/cooling)
A plumbing system (fresh/gray/black tanks)
If you understand those three categories, you’re set.
1) Choose the Right RV for Your Comfort Level
If you’re renting, most beginners have the easiest time in a Class C. It drives like a large truck, offers plenty of space, with systems that are easy to use.
A Class A feels more like a house—more space, often bigger tanks—but it’s also wider, taller, and can be more intimidating to maneuver in gas stations and campgrounds. All Class A's I offer don't require a CDL to drive, but it is highly recommended to have previous experience driver larger trucks.
If you’re towing a travel trailer, the upside is flexibility once you’re parked. The tradeoff is towing skill (especially backing up), sway management, and weight considerations.
Beginner tip: Pick the RV that makes you feel calm driving and parking. A slightly smaller rig is often a better first experience than a “bigger is better” decision.
2) RV Terms You’ll Hear Immediately (And Should Actually Know)
You don’t need a glossary—just these:
Shore power: Plugging into campground electricity
Fresh tank: Fresh water supply off-grid (Must use water pump)
City water: Fresh water connection at campsite
Gray tank: Sink + shower water
Black tank: Toilet waste
Dump station: Place to empty tanks
Slides: Parts of the RV that extend outward for extra room
3) Driving an RV: The Essentials That Prevent Damage
Most RV damage isn’t from “bad drivers.” It’s from good drivers who forget RVs behave differently.
Clearance: the most expensive rookie mistake
Low branches, gas station canopies, parking garage entrances—these are the classic “first trip” accidents. Know the exact height of your RV, if you are driving under anything that you think will come close, just avoid it. Knocking off an AC unit is your entire security deposit gone.
Turns and tail swing
RVs cut corners differently than cars. The rear end can swing wide, especially on tight turns.
Make turns wider than you think
Watch mirrors constantly
Be cautious around curbs, posts, and fuel station bollards
Braking and spacing
An RV is heavier and takes longer to stop.
Leave more following distance
Brake earlier
Slow down before turns
Wind and trucks
Passing semis can create a push/pull feeling. It’s normal.
Keep a steady wheel
Slow down a little
Don’t fight it aggressively
Backing up: use a spotter
If someone is traveling with you, have them guide you outside the RV.
And if you’re unsure: stop and get out to look. Some newer units will also be equipped with backup cameras.
4) Booking Campgrounds: The Beginner-Friendly Strategy
Your first RV trip should be easy on purpose. That starts with the campground plan. We provide a full 7 day itinerary for a Bozeman-Yellowstone-Tetons RV trip here.
Understand hookups
Full hookups: Electric + water + sewer (easiest)
Partial hookups: Usually electric + maybe water
No hookups: Totally doable, but you’ll manage power and tanks more carefully
What first-timers should prioritize
Stay at least two nights per stop (less setup stress)
Keep drive days short when possible
Electric hookup minimum for a smoother first trip
Boondocking is fun later. For your first trip, give yourself the easy version.
5) The Arrival Routine: Set Up Like You’ve Done This Before
Most campsite stress happens in the first 10 minutes. Use this order every time:
Stop and assess (slope, obstacles, hookup locations)
Make sure RV is level (Most campsites are, but use provided leveling blocks if not)
Connect shore power and confirm power inside
Slides out (only if level and clear)
Connect water if available
Connect sewer only at full hookup sites
If you follow that sequence, setup becomes calm and repeatable.
6) RV Power Explained
The most important thing you need to know for the RV power systems is the difference between 12V and 120V. 12V runs all your coach lights, system controls (water heater, furnace, control board), fans, and water pump. On units equipped with solar, solar panels will be charging your 12V system during the day.
120V runs your microwave, AC units, wall outlets, and TVs. It is very common for first time renters to try and plug their phone into a wall outlet without generator on or shore power and think something is wrong with the RV. In order to have any of the 120V system work you must have either the generator on, or shore power connected (Never both at the same time!) Connecting 120V also charges your 12V system!
Inverters: Select high-end units are also equipped with inverters that turn 12V into 120V. These systems don't provide unlimited power, and you risk draining your battery bank very fast if you aren't connected to any power source.
Shore power (120V)
When you arrive to your campsite, connecting the shore power cable correctly is critical. Before you plug in, make sure that all big 120V appliances are unplugged or turned off (AC unit, space heater plugged into outlet, ect...) Plugging in while any of these items can cause damage to the electrical system and and arc to the outlet. Also make sure that the campsite breaker is off when plugging in, and once the connection is fully secured then turn on the campsite breaker.
If there is no 120V power in the RV at this point, then we must check a couple things:
Check breaker box in the RV itself. This will be showed to you at handoff by one of our RV experts, and also shown in your RV orientation video. Generators and power connections can surge, and that can cause the breaker to trip.
If there is still no power, ask your campsite neighbors if they are connected and have power. Almost certainly power at the campsite is out, or your site connection needs to be serviced.
When plugged in, you have the most reliable power. Many Class C rigs are 30 amp and larger rigs may be 50 amp. Adapters can help you plug in, but they don’t increase capacity. If you are running a 50 amp RV but only booked a 30 amp campsite, you will likely not be able to run both AC units without tripping the breaker, but as long as you keep the power draw under 30 amps, you will be fine. We provide adaptors in all of our units at Bozeman RV Adventures.
We also provide 30A to 15A adaptors, but these should only be used in emergency situations to boost battery power. Most RVs Charge batteries while driving, or have a battery connect switch while engine is idling. This is a last case scenario.
Generator (120V)
A generator provides 120V power when you’re not plugged in. Even on the newest RVs, generators are loud and release exhaust fumes. NEVER HAVE WINDOWS OR DOORS OPEN WHILE RUNNING GENERATOR! You will almost certainly trigger the carbon monoxide detector and need to air out the RV. Use it responsibly and follow campground quiet hours. At Bozeman RV Adventures, we include 4 hours of generator use per day (this stacks over your trip, so for 7 days you have 28hrs). Most veteran RVer's only run their generator from 12-4pm during the hottest part of the day. This allows you to cool down the RV with your AC, and charge phones + cameras.
Starting your onboard generator:
Make sure RV is level, batteries levels are normal, all 120V appliances are turned off, and generator exhaust (outside of generator compartment) is clear of any obstructions.
The generator start switch on your control panel is a 2-way switch, with holding "START" cranking the generator, and holding "STOP/PRIME" priming the generator with fuel.
Before you ever hold down the start switch to crank, you must hold down "STOP/PRIME" for 5 seconds. If you don't do this, the generator will have a longer crank time or will not start at all.
After priming the generator, hold the "START" switch. On a colder morning, or if the generator hasn't been run in a few days, this can take up to 5 seconds. If you experience a no-start, wait 2 minutes and repeat priming + starting process.
Your vehicle gas tank must be above 1/4 tank for your onboard generator to work
Once your generator is running, you may notice that there isn't any 120V power immediately, this is normal. Almost all modern RVs are equipped with transfer switches that protect RV electronics from surges. In around 30 seconds, you will notice a beep on most models, and all 120V power will turn on.
Pro tip - make sure the side of the RV with the generator compartment is not in direct sunlight on hot days. Generators are air-cooled and can overheat under high load and hot temperatures.
Batteries (12V)
Batteries run your lights, water pump, fans, and controls as previously discussed. They drain faster than most first-timers expect if you’re camping without hookups and not running a generator. Low batteries are the cause of almost all issues first-timers experience. The easiest was to tell what level your batteries are at is by the battery monitor on your control panel. Almost all battery levels have three lights, the top being full (12.6V+) and the bottom being low (10V or less). Even when the battery level is in the middle (10-12.6V), you can experience problems with many systems. Slide outs can be slow to extend, generator can be slow to crank, and furnace can shut down from lower power fault. While the batteries can usually last a full 24 hours of normal use (lights, fans, 12V appliances) it is critical that you keep an eye on the levels to avoid any issues.
7) Fresh Water System
The fresh water system in an RV is a dual function system designed to work off of a city water connection at a campsite, or a holding tank and water pump for off grid use. When you are at a campsite with a water connection, simply connect the provided hose to the city water connection on the outside of your RV and you will have full service right away. Something that many people don't know is certain campsites have extremely high water pressure, risking blowing out your plumbing when you connect the hose. This is why we provide a pressure regulator that goes in-line with the hose, and prevents any blowouts.
When camping off grid, you will be using the fresh water tank and water pump. These fresh water tanks usually have a holding capacity of 35-50 gallons, and with conservative showers and sink use, can last 2-3 days before refilling. While water from this system is technically potable, the plastic holding tank gives it an undesirable taste, so I always recommend bringing drinking water. To refill the tank simply unscrew the cap on the outside labeled 'fresh water', and refill till it overflows.
The water pump is what will give you water pressure, with the switch for it located on your main interior control panel. The pump detects when it is pressurized and will shut itself off, so you can leave the pump on while camping. If you ever hear the pump continue running and it doesn't shut off, this means that your fresh water tank is running low, which can be seen from the fresh water level sensor on your control panel.
8) Tanks and Dumping: Simple Rules That Keep It Easy
This is the part people stress about—and it doesn’t need to be stressful. Grey tanks are for everything that drains from the sinks and shower. Black tanks are for everything from the toilet. If you are off grid and relying on your holding tanks, the key is to monitor the level and make sure the tanks are dumped before they fill. The easiest way to tell is through the level monitors on the control panel of your RV. If the grey tank completely fills up you will notice the shower drain (the lowest point) start to overflow. If the black tank fills up... you will know.
On even the newest and highest end RVs, it is incredibly easy for the level sensors to get gunk on them and give false readings. A lot of first timers complain about this, but it is just something we have to deal with as RV owners. Note that most RV tank sensors have 3 or 4 lights, corresponding to low, filling, and full. Whenever the display shows full, this is almost always accurate, as it is harder for the highest sensors to get gunked up. A great way to ensure they are as accurate as possible is to flush the toilet with enough water (minimum 5 seconds flush), and use the provided tank pods to dissolve as much solid waste (these also neutralize smell!) Simply drop one in the toilet the night before you plan on dumping.
Here is a helpful website that shows locations of all RV dumps sites.
Dumping the right way
Put on the provided gloves
Make sure the both valves are completely closed
Twist off sewer cap
Connect sewer hose securely to RV outlet, then other end to sewer connection
Open black tank → wait until liquid stops flowing
Once black tank is drained, open gray tank → wait until liquid stops flowing
If RV has a black tank flush valve, connect your hose and flush black tank for 1 minute
Close both valves
Rinse/stow sewer hose and wash hands
If you are at a full services RV campground, leave sewer hose connected and grey valve open. Do not leave the black tank valve open, drain it once every day.
8) Propane
The propane system is the most safety critical system on the RV, and should be treated so. The hot water heater, furnace, stove, and fridge (on most models) all run off of propane. On most RVs, there is a 20-40 gallon permanently installed tank. Unlike most tanks used for barbeques, these installed tanks are designed for life and are much more robust. With normal use during the summer, you will likely not use more than half a tank for a week long trip. The main draw from the propane tank is the furnace, and there is usually enough propane capacity for running this for a week straight when it gets colder.
For all propane systems to work, the RV must be level.
In the greater Montana/Wyoming/Yellowstone area, there is an abundance of locations that can refill your propane tank for you. Every U-Haul, Murdoch's, and filling station within the park will have a designated propane refill station. A professional will fill it for you, and refilling an entire tank is rarely more than $50. The tank itself has a physical level gauge and your control panel has an electronic level indicator. If you are ever below 1/4 tank refill as soon as possible, low propane along with cold temperatures can cause faults in all propane appliances. Please note that propane tanks can never be filled above 80% as there must be room left for expansion.
NO PROPANE SYSTEMS CAN BE USED WHILE DRIVING.
Before driving, ensure that all appliances are turned off and the master valve outside of the propane tank is completely shut. When you get to your campsite open the valve all the way, then turn it back a quarter turn to ensure optimal flow.
There is a propane detector in every modern RV, if this ever goes off the first thing to check is always that the stove is off. Immediately air the RV out if this happens and have everyone leave the RV. If the alarm continues to go off after this, shut off the master valve and have your propane system inspected immediately.
9) Slides and Awnings: Two Simple Rules
Slides
Only operate slides when:
the RV is level
the battery is full (or you’re plugged in)
Nothing is blocking the slide inside or outside
For certain models, the engine needs to be on
If it binds, stop. Forcing slides turns small issues into big repairs.
Awnings
Awnings are great—until wind starts blowing.
If wind picks up, retract the awning. This is one of the most preventable forms of RV damage.
9) What to Pack for Your First RV Trip
Most of what you need is included free of charge in all our bookings, please check the What's Included page for a comprehensive list.
10) Leaving Camp Checklist
Before you drive away:
Loose items secured inside
Slides in
Awning in
Power disconnected and stowed
Water disconnected and stowed
Sewer disconnected and stowed (if used)
Storage doors latched/locked
Steps up
Final walkaround complete
The final walkaround and triple checking the list above is the most important step you can do to prevent damage as a first-timer.
Troubleshooting Guide
1) No Power / Lights / Outlets Not Working
First question: Is it 12V or 120V that’s not working?
A) 12V issues (lights, fans, water pump, control panels, furnace controls)
Symptoms: Lights dim, slides slow, water pump weak, control panel resets, furnace faults. Checklist:
Check the battery monitor: if it’s low, that’s likely the entire issue.
If you’re plugged in, confirm your converter/charger is actually charging (battery voltage should climb over time).
If boondocking, reduce power use:
Turn off unnecessary lights
Avoid running fans nonstop
Don’t cycle slides repeatedly
If batteries are low:
Start generator (prime first) and wait for transfer switch
Or plug into shore power (even 15A emergency plug) to recover batteries
If 12V is dead-dead with no shore power:
Check that the battery disconnect switch wasn't turned off (many rigs have one)
Run the engine, or hold down engine battery connect switch for at least 5 minutes (depending on RV), then start generator
B) 120V issues (microwave, outlets, TVs, AC, charger, most wall plugs)
Symptoms: Outlets dead but lights still work; microwave dead; AC won’t run.
Checklist (in order):
Confirm one power source only:
Shore power OR generator (never both)
At the pedestal:
Breaker OFF → plug in firmly → breaker ON
In the RV:
Check breaker panel (reset any tripped breaker fully OFF then ON)
Find and reset any GFCI outlet (often bathroom/kitchen)
If still no 120V:
Ask a neighbor if their pedestal works (campground outage happens)
Try a different pedestal (if allowed)
2) Shore Power Trips Immediately / Breaker Keeps Popping
Likely cause: Too much load at once, or weak pedestal.
Fix:
Turn OFF high-draw items:
AC, space heaters, microwave, hair dryer, electric water heater mode (if equipped)
Reset pedestal breaker, then bring loads on one at a time
If you’re on 30A:
Don’t run two major loads at the same time
AC + microwave is a classic trip combo
If it still trips:
Your pedestal may be bad → request a new site or maintenance
3) Generator Won’t Start / Starts Then Dies / No Power After It Starts
A) Won’t start
Checklist:
Fuel above 1/4 tank (most RV generators shut off below this)
Prime: hold STOP/PRIME for 5 seconds first
Then crank START up to ~5 seconds
If no start: wait 2 minutes, repeat prime + start
Cold / hasn’t run in days: longer cranking is normal.
B) Starts then dies
Checklist:
Fuel level still the #1 culprit
Check if you turned on a heavy 120V load immediately—start generator first, let it stabilize, then add loads
If overheated:
Reduce loads, ensure generator side isn’t baking in direct sun, try again later
C) Generator runs but no 120V inside
Checklist:
Wait ~30 seconds for transfer switch
Check RV breaker panel
Confirm generator is actually producing power (you’ll usually hear load change when AC kicks on)
4) Water Issues: No Water / Weak Water / Water Pump Problems
A) No water at faucets
First question: Are you on city water or fresh tank + pump?
If on city water: ensure hose connected, spigot on, RV valve set correctly (some rigs have a selector valve)
If on fresh tank: turn water pump ON and confirm fresh tank has water
B) Water pump won’t stop running
Causes: leak, empty tank, open faucet, or loose fitting.
Checklist:
Confirm fresh tank has water
Check all faucets + shower knobs are fully OFF
Check outside shower (this one gets people)
Look under sinks and around toilet for leaks
If you can’t find a leak: turn pump OFF when not using water to avoid damage and conserve water
C) Low pressure / sputtering
Checklist:
Fresh tank is low (pump sucks air)
Faucet aerator clogged (unscrew and rinse)
Hose kinked at city water
Water filter (if equipped) may be clogged
5) Toilet / Black Tank Problems
A) Toilet won’t flush well / bowl won’t hold water
Checklist:
Ensure there’s enough water pressure (pump on if using fresh tank)
Make sure you’re holding flush pedal long enough (minimum 5 seconds flush is a good rule)
If bowl won’t hold water: seal may be dry—add a little water and cycle gently; avoid harsh chemicals
B) Black tank reads “FULL” too soon / inaccurate readings
Common reality: sensors get gunked.
Assume “FULL” is real. Dump soon.
Use plenty of water with each flush
Use tank pods and give them time to work
C) Toilet burps / smell increases suddenly
Checklist:
Black tank is too full → dump
Not enough water in black tank → add water
Roof vent needs airflow; run bathroom fan briefly after use
Confirm toilet seal holds water (water in bowl helps block odors)
6) Gray Tank Problems (Sink/Shower Slow Drain, Shower Overflow)
A) Shower pan fills / slow drain
Checklist:
Gray tank is near full (common cause)
Hair/debris in drain screen (clean it)
RV not level → shower drains poorly
Dump gray tank if at dump station/full hookup
Pro tip: shower is lowest point—if it overflows, the gray tank is really full.
7) Slide Won’t Move / Stops Midway / Ominous Sounds
DO NOT force it. Slides are expensive.
Checklist (in order):
Is RV level? (Slides can bind if twisted)
Battery voltage strong? (low 12V = slow or failing slide)
Are you plugged in or running generator to support 12V charging?
Check for obstructions:
Inside: cabinet doors, pillows, loose items
Outside: branches, posts, uneven ground
Some rigs require engine running—confirm your model’s rule
If it stops halfway:
Stop immediately
Verify battery voltage and clear path
Try again briefly; if it strains, stop and don’t keep cycling
8) Fridge Not Cold
Fridges need time and proper conditions.
Checklist:
Give it 8-12 hours to fully cool after starting (especially if warm full of food inside)
RV must be level (very important)
Check correct power mode:
If it’s a 120V-only fridge: you need shore/gen/inverter support
If in propane mode, insure that propane valve is on, you should hear click and pilot light go on. Repeat this up to 3 times if throwing error code, could be air in propane line
Don’t block vents, don’t overpack, pre-chill food if possible
9) Furnace / Heat Not Working
Checklist:
Thermostat set to HEAT and above room temp
Propane valve is on and propane level is above low
Battery voltage strong (furnace is 12V-hungry even if heat source is fuel-based on many rigs)
Vents clear and return air not blocked
If it tries then shuts off: Cycle up to 3 times to work air out of propane lines
10) AC Not Working / Not Cold Enough
Checklist:
You must have sufficient 120V power (shore or generator)
Pedestal amperage matters:
30A may not support multiple loads at once
Clean/clear interior vents
Set fan to AUTO if available; close windows; use blinds
If breaker trips when AC starts: reduce other loads
11) Alarms Going Off (CO, Smoke, Propane/LP if equipped)
First rule: Take alarms seriously.
CO alarm:
Shut off generator immediately
Get everyone outside
Open doors/windows and ventilate
Don’t run generator near open windows/doors or downwind in still air
Smoke alarm:
Cooking is common—ventilate, check stove/oven area
LP alarm (if equipped):
Turn off all propane appliances, ventilate, exit if persistent
If an alarm continues after ventilation and obvious causes are cleared, don’t ignore it—get it inspected.
12) “Something Feels Wrong While Driving” (Safety / Damage Prevention)
Brakes feel weak:
Ensure you are following TRUCK speed limits
Check for any smoking, pull over immediately and allow time to cool regardless
Sway or push/pull from trucks:
Slow down slightly, steady wheel, increase following distance
Overheating / warning lights:
Pull over safely, idle, assess fluids/temps; don’t continue if severe
Strange banging / scraping:
Stop, walk around, look for:
Steps not up
Storage doors open
Loose items
Low-hanging hoses/cables
The 60-Second “Reset” Checklist
When anything isn’t working, pause and check:
Are you level?
Do you have battery power (12V)?
Do you have shore/gen power (120V) if needed?
Are any breakers or GFCI tripped?
Are tanks full or close to full?
Did you change anything recently (mode switches, valves, disconnects)?
Most “RV emergencies” disappear after those six checks. Ultimately, preventative maintenance is critical to make sure your RV runs smoothly. That is why at Bozeman RV Adventures we perform top-to-bottom 90 day maintenance checks along with comprehensive inspections between each booking.
Author
Asher Cousins
Owner - Bozeman RV Adventures
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